Travel & Destinations

Kayaking Virginia’s Blue Ridge After 50: Upper James River

Test your limits on a new adventure

“Ok, let’s talk about some of the water features we’ll encounter today.”

Our guide Robert Duff at  Twin River Outfitters pointed to a map of the Upper James River. There are a few Class II rapids that can be challenging, but nothing you can’t handle, he assured us.

This wasn’t what I had in mind when I signed up for a “beginner friendly” kayaking trip with three other much younger women. For me, kayaking after 50 was supposed to be adventurous, not anxiety building—I was about to paddle the Upper James River in Virginia’s Blue Ridge, and I wasn’t sure I was ready.”

Woman kayaking red canoe through Class II whitewater rapids on Upper James River in Virginia's Blue Ridge with rocks and rushing water
Navigating Class II rapids on the Upper James River. | Photo: Aaron Black Schmit

Over sixty miles of unspoiled beauty

We came to Roanoke to explore outdoor adventures in  Virginia’s Blue Ridge by hiking, biking, and paddling. The Upper James River flows through the Blue Ridge Mountains, meandering through farmland and scenic valleys.

I had honed my kayaking skills near my home in Central Florida, where the water is calm and the only obstacles were the occasional alligator minding his own business on the shoreline.

My anxiety rose as I launched my red-tipped kayak into the river. If there had been any way of getting out of it, I would have.

The azure, blue sky and glassy water temporarily calmed me. I focused on strong, even strokes as Robert shared history of this river that was life-giving to Native Americans and early English settlers.

About a mile into our journey, I heard rushing water. “Swift water and waves that can tip over boats. Challenging in high water,” my map described the Class II rapids just around the bend. Breathe, I told myself, leaning into each stroke as I fought to keep the kayak pointed downstream.

“You did great!” the other women encouraged as I navigated through the bumpy stretch, pulling up beside them in smoother water.

On the next rapid, Robert taught me to spot the downstream “V,” the deepest and safest channel through a rapid. Was it my imagination or was this getting a little easier?

We had a long stretch of calm after the first few rapids. I realized the water was only waist deep in places; even if I capsized, I could just stand up. Facing my fear shifted my mind into a more logical place.

We took a quick break on the shore before paddling the last stretch.

“Secure your belongings. This one is a bit tricky. Stay left as we come around the island and then make a quick right to our takeout point,” Robert instructed.

I had visions of missing the final turn and drifting off downstream without my group. I hugged the shoreline, made one last hard right and we were safely on the shore.

“See, I told you it would be fine,” one of the other women said. That was hard, I thought. And I’m proud of myself.

Aerial view of tubers floating down calm James River surrounded by tree-lined shores in Virginia
Tubing offers a leisurely way to experience the James River. | Photo: Star City SkyCams

Taking it easy – Try tubing

If rapids sound too intense, you can still enjoy the river.

Try a tubing trip, where you can lazily take in the scenery while you float downstream — no paddling required. Suitable for kids as young as six, this would be a great multi-generational adventure.

Twin River provides tie ropes so you can keep your group’s tubes together. Sign up for the two-trip option and enjoy lunch from a local restaurant between trips.

Three women kayakers standing at James River Water Trail launch area with colorful directional sign showing distances to cities and red kayaks ready in background
Kristen Harrington and fellow kayakers ready to launch on the James River. | Photo VBR

Kayaking after 50 – Tips for success

At 58, I work hard to be ready for any adventure. Here are a few tips to prepare for kayaking:

  • Lift weights to strengthen your arms, core, back, and legs
  • Cardio like walking, cycling, and rowing machine for endurance
  • Yoga for balance and flexibility
  • Find a partner to stay on track
  • Work with a trainer to reach your goals
    (Make sure to check with your doctor before starting any fitness program.)
Flight of craft beers at Old Goats Brewing in Buchanan Virginia after kayaking James River
Refuel after your paddle at Old Goats Brewing in Buchanan. | Photo: Visit Virginia’s Blue Ridge

Post paddle brews

We celebrated our voyage at A Few Old Goats Brewing in Buchanan. Named for the beard-sporting owners (humorously referred to as “a few old goats”), the brewery incorporates the theme with goat head tap handles and “Goatmeal” stout.

Choose from over a dozen beers on tap and relax on the expansive outdoor patio, surrounded by mountain views and live music.

Getting there and where to stay

Roanoke is served by major airlines and Amtrak service from Washington, D.C., but you’ll need a car to reach Buchanan, 30 miles from Roanoke and the jumping off point for Twin River Outfitters.

The Hotel Roanoke and The Liberty Trust are both historic boutique hotels conveniently located for exploring on foot.

I’m so happy I didn’t let my fear have the final say. Kayaking the Upper James River re-introduced me to my younger, braver self, the one who ran marathons and summited 14,000-foot peaks.

What have you been putting off because you were too afraid? Just say “yes” to the adventure. Life is too short for regrets.

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Kirsten Harrington

Kirsten Harrington is an Orlando freelance food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in Modern South, Edible Orlando, She Buys Travel, World Footprints, LuxeBeat, Bahamas Air Up & Away, and numerous other publications. When she’s not writing, you can find her scoping out new adventures, hiking or enjoying a meal with her family. Follow her on Instagram @Wintergardenfoodie.

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