Despite its tragic history, Arizona’s Antelope Canyon remains a popular tourist destination. Classified more precisely as a slot canyon — a narrow passage carved out by water erosion over time — sunlight filters through slender openings over 100 feet above the canyon floor, creating spectacular waves of color that reflect off sandstone walls.
Located near Page, Arizona, several canyons (the Upper and Lower being the most visited) are on land owned by the Navajo Nation, so access is only possible by guided tours through several companies operating out of Page.
Stunning online images posted by previous canyon visitors enticed my wife and me to sign up for the tour of the Upper Canyon (upper as in above ground), which took about an hour and a half, including a short ride to and from the site. If you’re considering a visit, it’s pricey — we paid around $85 per person. Note that no bags or backpacks are permitted unless made of transparent material. Also, there are no restrooms at the canyon site, so you may want to lay off that 20-ounce coffee before heading out.
We were transported from Page with 11 other passengers in a minivan, arriving in about 15 minutes (some tour companies use open-bed trucks). From there, it was an exhilarating short drive across the rather deep sand to the canyon entrance.
That bumpy ride alone was almost worth the price of admission, with our guide/driver clearly preferring the accelerator over the brake pedal. All the drivers in the (many) other vehicles were similarly engaged in a friendly race to reach the canyon first.
After a short walk across the sand, we reached the canyon opening. The guided stroll through the canyon corridors, which are only a few hundred feet long, took about 50 minutes and was an easy, level walk (the Lower Canyon is below ground, longer, with narrow stairs, and would be more challenging for anyone with mobility issues). At the end of the tour, we exited the canyon. There was a short sandy hill, followed by a descending metal ramp with stairs back to the bus.
The tours are extremely popular, so book in advance. However, take note of the weather forecast for the day, particularly the wind. During our tour, the wind whipped furiously across the sandy plains, gusting over 25 mph, making walking to and from the canyon rather unpleasant — the fine orange sand lashing at our faces and in our eyes. It was particularly annoying inside the canyon since it blew down through the same openings that delivered the sunlight, covering our entire bodies. The tour company advised wearing face masks and goggles on windy days, which several people did.
When planning your visit, I advise choosing a bright sunny day (around noon during summer is ideal), as it brings out the brightest colors on the canyon walls. Although we experienced a mostly cloudy day with some sun, the colors were still breathtaking.
Despite the windy, overcast morning, the canyon walls’ reflections were stunning as our tour guide led us through, sharing the area’s history. She paused every few minutes to take photos of each of us with our cell phones, which is why the walk took 50 minutes. She knew the precise spots within the canyon chambers with the best lighting.
And no, you won’t see antelope in Antelope Canyon. The name originates from Navajo stories handed down through generations describing grazing animals near the canyon.
Antelope Canyon remains a genuinely captivating destination despite its treacherous past—in 1997, a flash flood took the lives of 11 tourists hiking in the Lower Canyon.
Stringent safety measures have been implemented to prevent such a tragedy from happening again. Nevertheless, walking through the canyon across the soft orange sand surrounded by the serene, colorful hues illuminating the canyon walls, it was hard not to imagine the horror those poor souls endured when suddenly swept away by raging floodwaters. The same waters helped sculpt the canyon’s natural beauty over the years.
