As the Rocky Mountaineer train from Vancouver slowly gathered speed, I sank into my plush window seat. I couldn’t wait to be surrounded by the pristine rivers, alpine peaks, and native wildlife of Western Canada.
What I didn’t anticipate was the culinary adventure ahead. Within minutes, I was devouring Eggs Benedict with Canadian back bacon. My three-course lunch later that day featured Dungeness crab ravioli and generous pours of Jackson-Triggs wines.
Dining on the Rocky Mountaineer was nearly as inspiring as the ever-changing landscape on my two-day luxury train ride to beautiful Banff. Regional specialties and award-winning Okanagan Valley wines helped create a bucket-list train trip I’ll never forget.
The train: Luxury GoldLeaf Service
My Rocky Mountaineer adventure kicked off last fall in Vancouver, where I spent several sunny days exploring British Columbia’s bustling biggest city. With my train “passport” in hand, I joined throngs of other guests at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver for a short motorcoach ride to a train station on the outskirts of town. Nearly a dozen sleek, blue railcars trimmed in gold awaited us.
After boarding, I climbed the spiral staircase and entered a spacious glass-domed car. Settling into my heated, adjustable seat, I felt transported back to the golden age of train travel.
The private Canadian rail company has created a “new age” of luxury rail travel with its GoldLeaf Service. From my bi-level car, I enjoyed panoramic views, access to a private dining room, and an open-air viewing platform ideal for taking photos.
Two charismatic hosts, Dyllan and Toni, delivered drinks and snacks to my seat throughout the day while sharing captivating tales of the land’s storied history, creating a connection with the region’s native people and pioneers.
The train’s slow speed—it never exceeds 30 mph—and the rhythmic sound of the wheels on the rails create a truly relaxing atmosphere.
The Route: Connecting West and East Canada
I traveled on the Rocky Mountaineer’s “First Passage to the West” route, which retraces the historic rail lines that connected British Columbia with the rest of Canada 130 years ago. The company pioneered this route in 1990, and it is still the most popular. Trains pass through rarely seen parts of the country before climbing into the Canadian Rockies to Lake Louise and Banff.
The company has added two other captivating routes to Whistler and Jasper in Western Canada and one in the U.S. between Denver, Colorado, and Moab, Utah. Trains travel only during the day, ensuring guests don’t miss a breathtaking scene. Journeys range from two to three days, with overnight stays included, and can be taken in either direction.
Traveling in October, I enjoyed a palette of autumn colors, including bright yellow larch trees that lit up the green forests along the route. Spring and summer trips offer unique experiences, too. Wildflowers and more wildlife often highlight spring trips, while warmer weather and longer days enhance summer visits. Train tours begin again on April 14 and run through mid-October 2025.
The scenery: Rushing rivers and snow-capped peaks
No matter the route or the season, expect to be wowed by the scenery. Day 1 began with views of the lush Fraser River Valley, stretching out in all directions as the train climbed from sea level to the Great Divide, the highest point along our route at 5,332 feet.
Peering out my window at pine forests and soaring hills, I felt like I was watching an IMAX movie with the train’s soundtrack of classics from Frank Sinatra to Elton John playing in the background.
I became more immersed in the dramatic landscape when I left my cozy seat for the windy viewing platform. I could hear the roar and feel the mist of the rapids swirling between the jagged rock walls of Hell’s Gate, the narrowest gorge of the Fraser River. As the train passed within feet of the steep canyon, I photographed a red pedestrian bridge linking the two sides of this popular tourist attraction.
The terrain grew steeper as we rolled past sites with names like Avalanche Alley and Jaws of Death Gorge. We followed the green, glacier-fed Thompson River near Ashcroft along arid land that reminded me of the U.S. Southwest. I spotted an osprey nest and several bald eagles floating on the current before we reached Kamloops, our stop for the night. I had no trouble falling asleep at the Sandman Hotel.
On Day 2, we boarded the train in the dark at 6:30 a.m. Our early start rewarded us with a breathtaking sunrise over the South Thompson River outside Kamloops.
The scenery featured views of hoodoos, unique rock formations created during the Ice Age, and Sushwap Lake, whose clear blue water laps dense green forests. We spotted our first snow-capped mountains in Revelstoke, with fog swirling around their base.
Our hosts alerted us to the Spiral Tunnels, a maze constructed in the 1900s to cut through mountains too steep to climb. Thanks to engineering borrowed from the Swiss, the tracks double back twice while tunneling under the mountains to cut the grade. This thrilling section makes for amazing photos of the train curving like a snake.
The food: Local specialties prepared on a moving train
Fresh-baked croissants and strong coffee from Vancouver’s Spirit Bear Coffee welcomed us to our private dining room on the first day. Nearly every entrée featured a Canadian product, such as Quebec maple syrup or British Columbia farm sausage.
Executive Chef Kaelhub Cudmore told us his mission is to enhance guests’ experience with cuisine that reflects the stunning vistas along the route. Preparing fresh gourmet meals in tiny kitchens on a moving train can be challenging, but the cuisine has drawn comparisons to that on luxury cruise ships and in first-class air travel.
My fellow diners and I heartily agreed as we enjoyed three-course lunches of Ahi tuna on a bed of greens with asparagus and Alberta striploin steak with blistered broccolini, carrots, and mushrooms in a red wine jus.
A bonus: We enjoyed a complementary selection of BC wines, beer, and high-end mixed drinks during meals in the dining car and at our seats.
The finale: The Northern Lights dancing in Banff
The skies were overcast when we stopped in Lake Louise to drop off passengers. By the time we reached Banff, it was dark.
I skipped a late dinner at the Rock Rim Hotel in favor of my pajamas. However, when I learned the Northern Lights might be visible, I requested a wake-up call. I groaned when the phone rang at 11 p.m., but I quickly got dressed. How many times does a Texan get to see the Northern Lights?
Watching the green neon glow of the auroras dancing above pine trees perfectly ended my ride on the Rocky Mountaineer.
The Rocky Mountaineer Luxury Rail Experience: What to know before you go:
Since offering luxury rail experiences in 1990, the Rocky Mountaineer has welcomed more than 2 million guests.
Two service levels are available on the company’s three Canadian and one U.S. routes:
- GoldLeaf—Passengers enjoy the top level of a double-decker rail car enclosed by a glass-domed roof. Meals prepared with local products are served in a separate dining room on the first level, where guests can access a large outdoor viewing platform. Overnight stays within the trip are included. Local wines, craft beers, cocktails, and non-alcoholic drinks are also included.
- SilverLeaf—Passengers enjoy oversized windows on a single-level rail car. Meals with local products are served to guests at their seats and are slightly smaller than those in GoldLeaf. Access to a smaller outdoor patio and overnight stays on the trip are included. Local wines, craft beers, cocktails, and non-alcoholic drinks are also included.
- Hotel stays can be added before and after a rail trip. The Rocky Mountaineer partners with Fairmont Hotels and other accommodations based on service level and destination. For example, I spent two days in Vancouver at the historic Fairmont Hotel Vancouver before my rail journey and two nights in Banff at the Rock Rim Hotel afterward. I wish I had stayed longer in both places!
